Split Lip

Front splitters, canards and undertrays are often seen on the demo cars we all love and we find our selves wanting them even though we don't really understand the effects they will have on the car. When you get this far into tuning you probably do have to understand that practicality has already gone completely out the window. Low ride height has resulted from stiff coil-over suspension and we are searching for those lap time minimising devices that can shave the odd 1/10th or reduce drag for outright speed.

For cruising around the street I wouldn't recommend these devices. Apart from the fact they are probably illegal child mauling additions, soon after addition the ability to negotiate the local shopping centre speed bumps and driveways become a nightmare and you find yourself driving to the track and thats it. Which may not be all bad if you go often enough.

Downforce and airflow, Cd and drag are all the keys in aerodynamics and the addition of well designed canards and splitters that aid and don't hinder airflow should all make a definite difference. Can you feel the effect on the street? Maybe on the C1 or your favourite blasting road, but anywhere else you probably wont be going quick enough. How efficient is the Fd anyway? I guess anything can be improved and slapping a flat piece of carbon under the car is an easy way to see whats going to happen. Usually the simple addition of the front underpanel creates an oversteering machine, so balance is all important. These race items can have a real effect on suspensions settings. Spring rates and rollbar changes could all be required, to balance the way the thing handles. But in reality, street use will never really warrant a splitter and diffuser. If you want to get a defect notice from the cops for dangerous bodywork or go to jail for chopping off some little girls foot as you drive past, go right ahead. I'm getting mine for the latter reason. They just look damn cool!

Russ

Diffusion Confusion

What do these things do? Why do we love this carbon creation that hits on every low gutter and scrapes on everything.? We just do! A well designed rear diffuser creates a pressure zone behind the car that feeds the rear wing and adds better overall downforce in a straight away for stability. This downforce comes at the cost, but luckily the high aerodynamic drag coefficient is reduced by the diffuser also as it smoothes airflow around the rear.

The key to the compromise is smooth airflow, so these parts are usually linked with a front splitter and smooth undertray thats allows for the smooth airflow right beneath the car that effectively sucks the car to the road. That's why F1 teams spend wind tunnel money. A small wing or undertray adjustment can have a huge change in straight line speed or downforce through cornering, even though the under body of the car is flat.

For lovers of the wingless Fd this is a true alternative to the GT wing. That can add downforce in a subtle way. However, use it in combination with a GT wing and an all round aero package should see lap times dropping as cornering speeds increase.

The four main companies producing these for the Fd are RE-Amemiya, Sanai-D, Craft Company and Ken Style. There are others that have some effect but none are as full on as these. If you do manage to attach one to the rear of your Fd, please be careful when reversing. Carbon is expensive.

Russ

Mounting Pressure

There is a lot of pressure these days to have the best of the best. But does the best of the best relate to the best for the chosen application. As far as intercoolers are concerned, there is considerable choice out there, but it can be broken down into three main areas. Original Mount, Front Mount and V-Mount. All have advantages and disadvantages and should be considered when tuning your FD.

The original mounting position is quite good as so if you are after a light tuned machine for cruising then there are simple replacement options that are 2x, 3x and 4x more efficient than the OEM part and do not impede on the function of the standard engine components. They also keep the intake track short so throttle response is not compromised either.

If you are more adventurous but don’t have a truck load of money then the next option is the FMIC or front mounted inter-cooler. This huge chunk of alloy sits in front of the radiator and usually requires a huge hole in the front of the car. This is usually facilitated by a replacement bumper. So the Intercooler is a mile from the throttle body, It blocks cool air to the radiator and weighs a ton. Is there any Advantage? Well the sheer size equals efficiency and the position means that they get the full face of airflow therefore getting the lowest charge cooling temps possible. However it is most recommended that the radiator is also upgraded to improve cooling required from more horsepower and blocked airflow. Fujita engineering still favour this setup and is a proven technology. You can also use a huge front splitter under the car effectively so down force considerations also come into play.

Finally the V-Mount has the ultimate reputation. With its’ expensive price tag comes the requirement to replace a bunch of componentry and reposition the battery and other bits and pieces. Air-con may also have to be sacrificed in the chase for ultimate power. Some smaller designs still allow for these luxuries but at the offset of performance. The V splits air equally between radiator and Intercooler and some of the flow goes beneath the car and half over the engine. For these systems to work efficiently, a vented bonnet should be combined to allow for maximum airflow to escape or be drawn out and an accommodation should be made beneath the car to extract radiator heat. Thus the aforementioned splitter under panel should be kept short near the radiator section or quality fans be used. Not only should response and horsepower benefit, but the cooling factor of the radiator will allow for sustained low temperatures, even on track.

So whatever your choice, weigh it up and think about all your options before embarking on an upgrade in this area.

Russ

Option - Headlights

Headlights on the Fd are a favourite for modification. Whether its the slightly open look, the 4 beam sleek light replacements or those R-magic eyes, everyone has a choice when it comes to this enhancement. But how good are they? Is the uprgrade or downgrade really worth it?

To make the easiest change to the poor old pop-ups is the wise clear lenses that recently appeared on the market. A simple change for improved lighting and no real visual change. The next slight change is the Pivot headlight adjuster. The additional cool air from half opened headlights is supposed to do something... :) I got one for that reason, not. From there, Knight Sports 4 beams improve vision and the HID is a more focused addition also that still allows them to be retracted back to the original external appearance. To go any further requires ditching the pop-up mechanism. Did I hear a weight saving of 10grams?

Of all reports you hear, the RE-Amemiya 4 beam headlight kit is really quite bad. Poorly focussed lighting, lens fogging in wet conditions, inability to adjust after installation and the cutting of the chassis mounting area are all negatives for the most popular of headlight conversions. Even the addition of HID to these do not overcome the drawbacks, but they look really really good. Similar thinking was employed by KSP, who offer a fixed HID kit with small Reybrig lights. For other options, the discontinued RUN rotary lights offer a nice direct beam which eliminated fogging while still being sleek in appearance through an oval shaped opening.
C-west have the slightly raised Carbon items and in a similar vein the new additions of cheap kits add terrible double bug eye styling. About the only other option you have without major body enhancement are the R-Magic eyes. These hot looking items are expensive, so there aren't many around.

After that you can do the Border type front bumper or R-Magic bumper of old that houses original or 4 beam options cut into the bumper. Final options involve replacing the front of the car like the RE-Amemiya AC.

Russ.

Fd Evolution

Through the Japanese car shows, namely the Tokyo Auto Salon, Osaka Auto Messe and Nagoya Auto Show, you can witness trends and concepts that appear through the peering world eyes. Although, with so many rumours coming from Japan about these awesome machines, we really knew nothing about them. These days it’s a bit different as each Japanese Tuning house sells its componentry overseas through agents like http://www.neweraparts.com/ and directly through English speaking staff. The world is getting smaller for the global population.

But in 1991, finding out what was going on in Japan was difficult indeed. Being involved in the IT industry since 1990, I had opportunities that others may not have had, like access to high speed "low speed" internet and time to test/surf. Even so, I wasn’t browsing Japanese sites heavily until around 1998 as there weren't that many. I started looking for Fc parts as that’s what I had at the time, but I would always see my dream car ( Fd ) at the same events and keep the pics of all of them. From then on I saw a lot as I started from Rotary Japan's site.

I don't know if you learn anything really useful, but I used to spend so much time looking at pictures from these events, and browsing for used cars. I would guess and decide for myself what was going on. Over time things become more apparent as the pieces slotted together and my Japanese improved to make up the Fd Tuners History. Maybe not the most accurate in detail but I could see what companies were out there and what they were doing.

I guess, the first tuned FD that really caught my eye was the '96 Knight Sports Type III demo car with the four beam headlight replacements and four extra driving lights. It's simple high mount rear wing and cool side skirts looked awesome at the time and complemented the Fd's shape. This was the car that confirmed to me that the Fd was something an Fc owner like myself really wanted in the future. The chisel shaped Amemiya cars of the day didn’t really appeal and the Viper clones and Race looking cars weren't appealing as I had no reference to what GT300 was. It was the R-Magic twin turbo car and the Border machines that created my thirst for a Twin Turbined monster with more than 500 hp.

These days I have realised that 400hp is more than enough for a quick street Fd and setup is more important that outright power. But that experience is something you don’t have when you're young. My vision for the ultimate Fd is torn between Amemiya G9, Fujita and Scoot components that would combine to create a unique machine. While Nissan GTRs changed through the 90's It was only really the Fd and the Supra that maintained the same shape. This however creates the dilema of choosing from the variety of componentry created by more than 100 companies over the 15 year Fd history. It is a daunting experience, so I know that the Ultimate Fd can take many shapes these days and still continues to evolve as we speak.

So whether you are into Collecting and Restoration, Cruising to the supermarket, Drift, Drag, Dress-Up, Racing, Street Tuning, Gykhana, Dirt Rally, Tarmac Rally or a mix of all, I hope we can continue to enjoy our Fds as they excel in all our pusuits.

Russ.

The Ring

"The ring" is a track steeped in legend surrounding Formula 1. As the F1 cars became too fast, the track became too dangerous. But somehow these days, it's not too dangerous for you and I. So Any old hoon can head to the ring, strap on some basic safety gear and go for an all out time attack on this lengthy track that snakes it way through the picturesque German countryside.

The Nurburg ring allows users to buy lap tickets and head onto the circuit a lot like your local McDonalds drive through. 1 please... 10 seconds later your surpassing the speed limit and heading down towards the half way point at the carousel, travelling over 300kph+ straights and tight twisting, undulations.

Is it the ultimate road? Well it's arguably one of them. The shear fact that no-one is coming the other way and you don't need to worry about the cops is enough for me to say its the ultimate road.

As you complete your run on this awesome track. You may have the chance to paint your name on the circuit. Its one of the trademarks of the place. As you drive over everyones calling cards, think about the countless others who have driven the Nurburg ring. Maybe one day I'll get there to paint it in person, until then its PS2 for me.

For more info visit http://www.nurburgring.org.uk/

Russ

20b Power

There have been many 20b conversions into FD Rx7s over the past years with some being more successful than others. My own experience was with a freinds 1994 Fd3s and the addition of the 20b Cosmo powerplant, first in stock form and then in rebuilt form with a single turbo replacement. From the outside this car looked stock and other than the YRX20b number plate you would suspect nothing.

The stock Cosmo engine is no slouch and the huge torque combined with the low weight of the Fd was truely enough for a road car. 400 horse power with stock turbos is easily achievable once the exhaust and computer are replaced. However after some massive knocking caused by lack of fuel and bad management from a "link" computer, an apex seal somehow found its way from the engine through the turbo.

A successful rebuild and the addition of a Garret t04E Single with all the accessories needed to achieve 650+hp, transformed an already quick car into an absolute monster. It was a task that only took money and a bit of knowhow provided by Canberra's Jakes Performance. Fuel supply at this level of horse power is your only real worry so Rochesters 1000cc injectors, malpasi fuel pres reg, microtech MTX 12 Engine Management Computer and a Bosch 040 in tank pump capable of 600hp (probably needed bigger) provided a healthy power of 320kw at the rear wheels. This was achieved on only 11psi...! The Lazy cosmo plant was waiting for more so there was still a huge opportunity for outright power. ( if you need it )

The only real issue is the extra weight in the front which can cause bump steer if the crossmember is not modified correctly. But then there's getting 650Hp to the ground through the rear... It is a task even Pirreli PZero can't cope with. S-Tyres or Street Slicks please!

Seeing this beast blast past track spec Porsche 911 tubos on track is a smile evoking experience.
If you ever get the chance to ride in one of these ... Don't say no.

Russ.

Tsukuba Circuit

Tsukuba Circuit is the bench mark of Japan. Buy GT4 for the Playstation2 and check it out. This is where any lap time compared among the Japanese tuning community will immediately give you an idea of a cars true performance and gain respect. For an Fd with around 400hp and well tuned suspension and S-tyres you would be looking at around the 59 second range if you install a professional driver thats lapped Tsukuba about 1000000 times. For the rest of who pull up and hack out a few laps. We may use these as our ultimate goals but will never really get close.

Here is a sample reference of real FD reference times at Tsukuba. Many of these have been set with low fuel limits and qualifying tyres.

The best of the all out race cars is the Pan Speed 2006 Time Attack Fd 56"800 closely followed by the Re-Amemiya 2002 Time Attack Fd at 56"863. The R-Magic Pinky 4 Fd hit 57" but is aiming for the 55 second range. Feast regularly attend and got their blue GT Fd into the 58"s
For the road cars, the Fujita single turbo Fd sits near the top with a recent 59"352. Many of RE-Amemiya cars also sit in this range from 59" - 1'01". The T78 equipped Greddy G9 hit 1'01" flat in 2002. The Revolution boost-up Fd recently logged a 1'01"375 so its all pretty close and whether you have 450hp or 350hp there are many factors affecting times.

Off the Shelf from mazda 2002 Mazdaspeed BSpec FD 1'07" without S-Tyres. Still pretty impressive. Slight boost up, shocks and and S-tyres should yeild around 1'04" and add a full GT wing and body kit should get you in the 1'03 region. Add some more serious boost brings you 1'01' and from there it gets seriously competitve and the "street tune" is somehow forgotten.

If all this time talk sucks, then just drift it up! Yahoo Map

Russ

Fast, East & Extreme II

Newera Media is currently in production of Fast East and Extreme 2. This DVD is dedicated to the Japanese performance scene and has a varied overview of the best japan has to offer.

Drift experience is big at all levels in Japan and Newera takes you to Tsukuba for the Battle Magazine - Batttle of Drift 2005. This showcases the preliminary series to D1. The action is raw but the action is all there.

At the other end of the scale is BIG X. This is where the D1 Drivers go to have fun. Ebisu circuit is well known in drift circles and it becomes the venue for a drift show of mamoth proportions. All the big names are out on track in a choreographed drift performace.

Garage Saurus are in direct competition with Top Secret in the some street scene. They are the Keepers of the infamous 800bhp, orange, dual-purpose drag and track car. Not to mention a few other 8 second cars. Newera brings you interviews and in depth footage from their premises in Saitama, Japan.

Also check out Weld Technique Factory. They are known for crazy one off Drift and Drag cars but their products find their way into the D1 Grand Prix for 2005 and live very happily in Street JZX100 drift machines. These heavyweight driifters actually receive awesome reviews from the best, given the right road conditions. Bounce that limiter.

Tsukuba Super Battle is the premier event for Japanese tuning companies to flex their muscles. This time attack event around Tsukuba Circuit is breath taking stuff. We were there. Trackside cameras, on board cameras, interviews and results !

Tokyo auto salon and more make this an awesome DVD. Dont miss it.

Check the www.neweramedia.com website for previews and more.

Veilside Fortune FD

This the Fortune #2 car prepared for the Paris Tuning show. Yokomaku-san volunteered to expand his reach to europe with Newera's help.

Here is an extract of an interview with the designer himself which provides a bit of an isight into the process.

"I never draw concepts on paper before I start to shape. The ideas and inspiration are all here in my head. I can shape and create a design directly by hand as a 3D full sized design. Really, I find I work best like this - and this is how I've shaped all my designs from the beginning. The process for making a design starts with foam, which is used to make the initial shape. By shaving it, I can get a clear shape. Next, I cover the foam shapes in glass fibre, which gives the shape rigidity and is like putting a bandage over one's skin. "
Once the glass fibre's hardened, I apply clay - and this allows me to shape to exactly how I want the car to be. Then, once that stage is completed, I spray the bodywork with primer, so I can check and completely erradicate any minor imperfections. Upon completion of the design, I use the 3 dimensional plotter to log the complete shape of the design to within 0.1mm. With this data, I can re-create the work by reversal of the operation. I can also use the 3 dimensional plotter to enable me to get exact symmetry between each side of the design and so get a perfect design as I complete it."

We saw this car in preparation in 2004 and there is a feature on Fast East and Extreme.
Check www.neweramedia.com for more info.