Lets face it, the standard Fd is no ballistic missile, but it can hold its own against other unmodified sports cars. However, its not long after purchase that many owners start longing for more oomph. Few people are ready to spend a huge load of cash and generally progress through a boost up scenario adding inter-cooler, exhaust and computer.Soon after this, the search for more power bites again and the only option left is a turbo upgrade. So deciding how far you want to take your Fd, should be thought about up front to prevent spending twice on similar components like a header ( dump ) pipe that will be useless in a single turbo setup, like wise, airfilters are throw away items for a single upgrade, but do you need to go single?
The standard twin turbine setup on the Fd is not bad, it definately has advantages in anti-lag spooling and also some drawbacks, like the nest of wires and troublesome control mechanisms, but the major one is a maximum efficient power output of around 350hp. If you dont want to redesign your engine bay for a single, you have a few options when searching for a litle more power in this department. A rebuilt turbine with replacement compressor wheels can be performed. Knight Sports goes a little further with their own design twin turbo replacement good for approx 420hp. This is as much as most single turbo conversions.
What about Single Turbos?!?! With advances in turbo design and knowhow that surrounds them, a 450hp single can provide good power across a wide power band or you can opt for the laggy & peaky, huge power options up to 650hp from your 13b. You'll have to spend up big on ancilliaries like fuel pumps, injectors, wastgate, manifold, filter, exhaust header and a bunch of other items that probably wont match anymore, but the less clutter in the engine bay and the simple design could mean less trouble in the future if you dont go too mad.So whatever you end up with under the bonnet, do the hard yards first, drive one of each and feel the difference yourself. You may decide a single turbo is indeed over-rated. But for me, Ill have a 1000hp triple HKS GT2835 sequential setup on a 20b. Now that should be enough!!!
Russ.
Front splitters, canards and undertrays are often seen on the demo cars we all love and we find our selves wanting them even though we don't really understand the effects they will have on the car. When you get this far into tuning you probably do have to understand that practicality has already gone completely out the window. Low ride height has resulted from stiff coil-over suspension and we are searching for those lap time minimising devices that can shave the odd 1/10th or reduce drag for outright speed.
Downforce and airflow, Cd and drag are all the keys in aerodynamics and the addition of well designed canards and splitters that aid and don't hinder airflow should all make a definite difference. Can you feel the effect on the street? Maybe on the C1 or your favourite blasting road, but anywhere else you probably wont be going quick enough. How efficient is the Fd anyway? I guess anything can be improved and slapping a flat piece of carbon under the car is an easy way to see whats going to happen. Usually the simple addition of the front underpanel creates an oversteering machine, so balance is all important. These race items can have a real effect on suspensions settings. Spring rates and rollbar changes could all be required, to balance the way the thing handles. But in reality, street use will never really warrant a splitter and diffuser. If you want to get a defect notice from the cops for dangerous bodywork or go to jail for chopping off some little girls foot as you drive past, go right ahead. I'm getting mine for the latter reason. They just look damn cool!
For lovers of the wingless Fd this is a true alternative to the GT wing. That can add downforce in a subtle way. However, use it in combination with a GT wing and an all round aero package should see lap times dropping as cornering speeds increase.
If you are more adventurous but don’t have a truck load of money then the next option is the FMIC or front mounted inter-cooler. This huge chunk of alloy sits in front of the radiator and usually requires a huge hole in the front of the car. This is usually facilitated by a replacement bumper. So the Intercooler is a mile from the throttle body, It blocks cool air to the radiator and weighs a ton. Is there any Advantage? Well the sheer size equals efficiency and the position means that they get the full face of airflow therefore getting the lowest charge cooling temps possible. However it is most recommended that the radiator is also upgraded to improve cooling required from more horsepower and blocked airflow. Fujita engineering still favour this setup and is a proven technology. You can also use a huge front splitter under the car effectively so down force considerations also come into play.
Finally the V-Mount has the ultimate reputation. With its’ expensive price tag comes the requirement to replace a bunch of componentry and reposition the battery and other bits and pieces. Air-con may also have to be sacrificed in the chase for ultimate power. Some smaller designs still allow for these luxuries but at the offset of performance. The V splits air equally between radiator and Intercooler and some of the flow goes beneath the car and half over the engine. For these systems to work efficiently, a vented bonnet should be combined to allow for maximum airflow to escape or be drawn out and an accommodation should be made beneath the car to extract radiator heat. Thus the aforementioned splitter under panel should be kept short near the radiator section or quality fans be used. Not only should response and horsepower benefit, but the cooling factor of the radiator will allow for sustained low temperatures, even on track.
