RE-Xtreme Version III - Concept

Is this a possibility? I have started a blog to drain my brain of concepts and reality. Costs and estimates. Direction and stupidity.

Hmmm . RE-Xtreme Version III sounds good on paper, but what is the reality in as 2010 aproaches?

Russ.

Xmas Gifts

Well, Today really was Xmas. My local die cast minicar store decided to have a 50% off sale.

Maihama PIT. I picked up this MiniZ  in 1/64

And this Spirit R in Blue (I restrained from the Red one also)

They now Join my D1 car

And my converted RE-A car. and a few others.

Chome one was still full price but I'll probably go back. It's too cool.

Merry Xmas to me!

Xmas Gifts Part 2

Couldn't help it, I went back to PIT in Ikspiari and picked up the Kyosho chrome boy.

The finish is excellent! I need to change the wheels on these though in good time. My Advan AVS 5 wheels look much better.

As I mentioned in a previous post, PIT is closing down. Today I got a little bonus. This Ikspiaki Diorama was magically included in my bag. It's a perfect display for some other models I have.

My key chain Amemiya D1 car looks great in this location.

Arigatou Ikspiari PIT.

Russ.

Merry Xmas.

When you wake up tomorrow, unwrap your gifts, say merry xmas, but find time for a drive.

No matter how cold and No matter how much snow or no matter how hot it is.

Walk around the car and just look.

Look at you car the way you did on the first day of ownership.

Start it up. and just go. Be free!

Grab you favourite CD, turn it up till it drowns out the screaming engine and drive.

Press the pedal to the floor a few times and destroy some environment.

Some things always bring a smile to a driver.

Remember why you own it.

Merry Xmas.

from

RE-Xtreme

WGT 20b PP FD

Continuing with my UK scene FD picks. This PP 3 rotor time attack car from WGT is off the rocker.

I've been following it's build and others on the driftworks forum for a while but it recently recieved a few extra finishing touches for ultimate Time Attack. There are a lot of different engine choices in the UK and this one is a 20B PP (peripheral port) with masses of customality.

So this sticker show some indication of the power available.

However for ultimate time attack, the PP Rx7 is a strange choice. The 475-500hp @ 9000rpm is a very different kind of power to any turbo application. The torque curve is very different.

Powder coated exhaust manifold and white pearl intake manifold leading to throttle bodies in a carbox box are pretty special.

Part of the unique oil system on this car is visible at the front. Pick this slightly unique bar.....?

It's by Works 9. There aren't many of these around.

The stopping power is also up to the task. Ksport and calipers and big rotors covered by RAYS Volk Racing CE28 keep wight down also.

Interior is all business and the dash recieves some anti-glare treatment and utilises some Fujita engineering gauges.

The soft cover on the dash is very rally!

Video 1 Idle.

Video 2 Full Song.

Until recently the car was running a Knight sports rear wing and normal lights. but these have been replaced by Dragon GT wing and RE-Amemiya Sleek Lights. Additions of splitters and diffusers bring the car closer to it's all out attack for 2010.

Russ.

Xmas Shopping for Time Attack.

Lets look at the transition required from street to dedicated time attack monster and the effort involved.

Most people convert parts of their car to circuit spec items, then complain that they don't like it anymore.

The fact is it's going to be a compromise. 500hp engine with stock LSD = Fail. Aero with stock springs = Fail, Big brakes up front, Normal Rears = Fail. Big exhaust on a long trip = Fail.

Street or Circuit machines are all about components working together. You can't realistically have both. I really applaud Japanese privateers who trek their S-tyre & 20kgmm spring cars to the circuit on Japan's freeways. The bone shaking is rediculous, let alone the unmuffled straight through exhaust and large turbine noises for a couple of hours. Then there's the return journey with traffic jams and heavy clutch and dog box transmission. YUK!

If you don't go full focus. You will be slower than everyone else. That's a fact. You need to choose. Street or Circuit.

So imagine the scenario.

You have made the decision not to use your car on the street anymore. What's next?

Lets use the Auto Craft FD3s as a case study.

1. Engine and Porting

Basically, a ported engine allows for better combustion and more power. Trade offs are power vs reliability.
Are you planning a rebuild every year. Maybe you should be thinking about it. A good overview of porting is here. http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/re101/ports.php
Depending on engine builder's knowledge new components and the price increases for basic ancilliaries.

$10,000~

2.Turbine and Wastegate.

The biggest ancilliaries are these items. Bigger is not always better. (yes it is) Do you want no power then everything at once. Or a spread of power? What are the circuits like. Long radius corners at half throttle or slow in fast out tight corners. These days you usually can have a good spread of power. Around 450~500hp is good for the 13b rotary with a T04Z or T78.

$10,000~

3. ECU Fuel and injection.

Mapping a monster takes time and knowhow, but don't forget power requires fuel. Upgrading here with swirl pots for increased G applications and larger pumps and injectors should ensure you are on the right track. A bigger throttle body and intake plumbing could probably sit in the combustion realm.

$7,000~

4. Exhaust Again
Straight pipe out the side of the door? I've seen it. But maybe something more conventional is ok. Titanium pipe out the rear of the car. thats it. This is probably the cheapest part of the build.

$ 4000~

5. Drivetrain.
Twin plate clutch for instant engagement, a close ratio sequential box for lightening fast changes and power plant frame upgrades ending in a selected final gear and 2 way LSD. Plus all mounting points upgraded.

$20000~  Gear box alone is about $12000

6. Seam Welding and Cage

Body strength allows precision mounting of components and reduction in suspension geometry variation. A solid cage is a safety requirement at this speed. Cages are welded to the chassis and a/b pillars as some strength is lost with other lightweight components. This boxed reinforcement can totally change the feeling of the car. Add to this seem welding and the body flex is almost totally eliminated. The added weight is a penalty easily regained in other areas.

$5000~ if you aren't going to DIY.

7. Weight reduction and interior.

The first step in weight reduction is the interior removal and selected lightweight items. A half dash with data logging instrument cluster mounted on a carbon panel seems the most popular here. Carbon seat, Harness and a good extinguisher.
The second step is replacement panels. Carbon doors, hood and trunk. Acrylic windows and small mirrors. Headlight replacement is also another area of noticable difference.
The final step is component selection.
Every gram saved equates to benefits in accelleration and decelleration and anytime gravity needs to be overcome, so choose carefully from now on.

$15000~ More if I include the dash logger and a camera recorder.

8. Aero and Wide Body

Which body panels work best. Some are wind tunnel tested, some are trial and error tested. Read some books on fluid dynamics and car aerodynamics and decide which of the body designs can suit your requirements. The way the car passes through the air has a major effect on suspension settings and power requirements.

Wide body designs allow for larger tyres should be considered at this time. The contact patch offers more grip available. Spacing the wheels also contributes to g-loading geometry changes and different handling characteristics.

Lower weight is also a gain as most components are FRP or carbon. Rear Fenders could also cut away as a weight reduction. Something the Autocraft car doesn't incorporate.

$10000~ Remember it needs paint too.

9. Canards and diffussers.

These "popular" items like Canards, splitters, side diffusers etc are usually only required to fine tune a car's behaviour. Reduction of drag however, Vs the increase of downforce is another issue. Underbody flows should also not be ignored.

$3000~

10. Suspension
So getting your car suspension tuned and corner weighted is an important option to balance the car's handling. Fully adjustable suspension including dampers and a range of springs, but not ignoring pillow ball joints, adjustable arms and roll centre adjustments that can make your car easy to set up with the right knowledge. It's not just a case of different springs and Go.

$20000~

11. Brakes

Brakes and balance are important with S-Tyres and this time you may want to think about upgrading rotors and calipers. If nothing else than for reduced weight and rolling stock. ABS removal and a brake bias adjuster are almost a requirement for fine tuning to track conditions.

$20000

12. Wheels and tyres.

I left this until last because it's probably the final thing to install before you hit the track. How many sets?
265x35x18 or 17 seems a popular size on the lightest rims available. Usually a 9.5 or 10" rim is ok. S-tyres for time attack range in compound from 3 laps to 100 hundred laps so choose for duration.

Hmmm. Better find a sponsor for this part.

$6000 per set ... 5 sets for different conditions.???

The last thing is YOU. Driver training. do some! Then hit the track.

So whats the rough tally for something out of the box.

Base car is about $15,000 and then add a conservative. $130000~ If you'd like to swing that cash my way.

I'd be happy to build it for you, Just add a minor fee to that total... Hmmmm how much?

Lets say around $200,000 for a tested machine with the best componentry. Buying the Auto Select car for $60,000 sounds cheap now doesn't it.

Russ.

Xmas Shopping for Track Day Reliability.

These images always promote thoughts of racing and time attack. But can you afford it?

Imagine the scenario.

I have a stock FD. I want to take it to the track and have some fun and improve my driving.  (I'm not going to cover TIME ATTACK or RACING in this post.)

Public Roads usually offer little stress for cars. You can run in the mountains all day without really loading your car. But go to the circuit, its a different story. Full throttle for 70% of course followed by repeated haults from top speeds. G loading and your lubricants and fluids cant cope. So here are some parts that should be on your list.

Lets start with power. You don't need it but changing other components for reliability does inherently bring power gains so here we go.

1. Full Exhaust System.

Front pipe from the twins NEEDs to be replaced. Flow de-restriction here is very noticable.

Mid pipe with high flow catalyser. But some people like to De-cat for the track, because you will probably end up melting the cat. Ever seen the exhaust warning light on your normal FD... "go to the circuit... you will"

and Muffler. Be careful of track noise limits and as always, weight. Light is fast everywhere. Power is just fast in a straight line.

Price: $3000~

2. V Mount Intercooler/Radiator

Most rotaries overheat on the track. Stock components will lead to inefficient turbocharging equalling less power and exessive water temps leading to engine failure. But done right, An rx7 can become a reliable machine. All V-Mounts are not the same and attention must be paid to ducting also.

Price $4000~

3. Normal Turbine Refresh and/or Re-Flow.

If you have an older car. Chances are the turbos are in need of a refresh anyway and by adding more power your turbo's will most certainly top out at 330hp. later models maybe ok up to 380 but thats about it. If you are adding intercooler and more then upgrading to later spec turbos and/or re-flowed ones can unleash more power and also increase reliability through less stress. (unless you run 30psi!) Even after upgrading, stick to 0.9~1.0bar for reliabilty. Should be aiming for 330~380 hp. This is good street/ track balance. Improve your driving. 330hp can still get you into trouble.

Price: $3500~ .

4. ECU tune and Settings.

Once you get these power pieces under control. Tune it so it doesn't explode. You have probably added a bunch of power and boost will have increased with bigger intercooler and less restriction. Trust the experts here.

Price: $1000 + Time.

Ok now lets look at the handling side of things.

5. Suspension


A good set of adjustable coil overs give you flexibilty but are not a requirement. A set of well tuned struts and springs can do the business. For the circuit/street balance and S-tyres you'd want to be running a little higher spring rates than you road going counterparts. People have different theories about suspension. So talk to whoever you want on this issue. I had uprated sways which also had a big effect. I think Ohlins DFV are a good setup.
Price: $3500~

6. Brake pads, callipers and rotors.

First.... DONT upgrade your callipers. FD 4 piston callipers are proven winners. DO upgrade your brake pads and fluid. There are sooooooooo many brands out there. Project Mu HC+ or Endless MX72 are repeatedly recommended as a street/circuit pad with exellent results. Driver preference here also. But don't for get the ability of the tyres to handle the braking force. This should  be a combined decision.

Rotors are ok, but as they are consumable, wear will occur and replace them as you require. Dixcel or DBA seem to be making good ones for not soo much cash.

Price: $500~

7. Wheels and Tyres

For the circuit, 17" are good. You will be using rubber for grip, not looks. No difference in times, so go the cheaper option.

Please buy RAYS or PRODRIVE forged wheels. You will not regret it. I recommend Volk RE30 for rigidity, But if cleaning is not your thing then Volk TE37 or new VR G2 are a good choice. Lightweight rims will release a power benefit also so 17" are a good option here too.

AD08, Direzza Star Spec. RE-11 etc. Whatever you can afford and is available in your region. Fun is important too so who cares if it slides a little and you're on a budget. You'll be burning up many if you get the circuit bug.

Price: $4000~

8. Interior / Seat and Wheel


The weakest point of the driving experience in an FD are the stock seats. One word... ATROCIOUS!

Get a bucket seat. FD spirit R or RZ recaro's are ok, but their are so many others that do just as good a job for much less $$. Add a harness for race day. Not on the street that's Naff.

Price: $2000~


Summary.
There a whole bunch of other things like rigid engine mounts, etc that all help but when you see the final tally so far you'll be thinking about not going to the track. Personal items like helmet and suit can run up $2000 also.

So the total tally is already over $21,000 dollars and it probably should be done at the same time.


All prices are rough guides and do not include any labour and small other costs.
So basically, you could just buy another car thats already prepared.

Notice I haven't even touched on aero and others.... Why..? because you don't really need it to have fun.

Here is a case study of the process done right.

Steve's 2001 RS-R Bathurst FD3s Rx7. Street and track capable.

This car is capable of sub 2:00 minutes at Fuji speedway. Just as fast as my other friends Mines 500+hp GTR33, or another friends full tune R34.

Engine has new turbo's with PowerFC so the power is set a bit lower as tuned by knight sports. V-mount and full exhaust. Thats all. It's reliable and can do a whole 40 minute session without breaking a sweat. Suspension has coil overs and TE37 with A050 Advans.

Enjoy shopping or dreaming. But don't give up. Here is a little insipration.

Russ.

Drift Package Light

I was walking around the other day and I saw this Drift Pachage Light for $10, so I picked it up. They have been out for ages and usually retail around $30, but after I got it home it's totally worth only the $10. The body moulding is not good near the bumper. The RC is very basic with full lock or zero and full speed or zero, but it works and does allow three selections of 27mhz band. Somehow my house has a hollow floor and it makes sooo much noise inside. It's too small and embarrassing to take out side. I have the Drift Package for that. :)

There are a few versions. Standard. RE-Amemiya D1 car and a pink one with head and neon lights and the Project D initial D version too which has a more powerful engine.

Body detail is pretty good for 1/26 scale and looks good on the shelf, which is lucky, because thats where it will stay.

It was designed by Yokomo but made by Takara-Tomy and based on the Aero RC version, There is an fd there too.

Russ.

ERC FD at Ebisu 6 Hour.

How does the FD fare in this 6hr enduro. With dificulty. EliteRacingCorporation (ERC) entered the 6 hour race in Ebisu in November. They had some trouble with their user's car so they didn't post anything on their blog and the engine was not sounding good by the end. 6000rpm ish was a good shifting point and they eventually did finish. But 63 laps down. They still managed 256 laps though. A good effort.

They could take away some good points though. The car set the fastest lap in the race @ 1'03".162. It was faster than qualifying and over 2 seconds faster than any other car.

They still managed to qualify on the first row and by the first corner were in front and on their way.

They had to negotiate slower cars like my friends team in their TG-R Prelude.

But the race for the FD ended up being a nice sunday drive in the autumn mountains at Ebisu east circuit for the FD.