Xmas Shopping for Track Day Reliability.

These images always promote thoughts of racing and time attack. But can you afford it?

Imagine the scenario.

I have a stock FD. I want to take it to the track and have some fun and improve my driving.  (I'm not going to cover TIME ATTACK or RACING in this post.)

Public Roads usually offer little stress for cars. You can run in the mountains all day without really loading your car. But go to the circuit, its a different story. Full throttle for 70% of course followed by repeated haults from top speeds. G loading and your lubricants and fluids cant cope. So here are some parts that should be on your list.

Lets start with power. You don't need it but changing other components for reliability does inherently bring power gains so here we go.

1. Full Exhaust System.

Front pipe from the twins NEEDs to be replaced. Flow de-restriction here is very noticable.

Mid pipe with high flow catalyser. But some people like to De-cat for the track, because you will probably end up melting the cat. Ever seen the exhaust warning light on your normal FD... "go to the circuit... you will"

and Muffler. Be careful of track noise limits and as always, weight. Light is fast everywhere. Power is just fast in a straight line.

Price: $3000~

2. V Mount Intercooler/Radiator

Most rotaries overheat on the track. Stock components will lead to inefficient turbocharging equalling less power and exessive water temps leading to engine failure. But done right, An rx7 can become a reliable machine. All V-Mounts are not the same and attention must be paid to ducting also.

Price $4000~

3. Normal Turbine Refresh and/or Re-Flow.

If you have an older car. Chances are the turbos are in need of a refresh anyway and by adding more power your turbo's will most certainly top out at 330hp. later models maybe ok up to 380 but thats about it. If you are adding intercooler and more then upgrading to later spec turbos and/or re-flowed ones can unleash more power and also increase reliability through less stress. (unless you run 30psi!) Even after upgrading, stick to 0.9~1.0bar for reliabilty. Should be aiming for 330~380 hp. This is good street/ track balance. Improve your driving. 330hp can still get you into trouble.

Price: $3500~ .

4. ECU tune and Settings.

Once you get these power pieces under control. Tune it so it doesn't explode. You have probably added a bunch of power and boost will have increased with bigger intercooler and less restriction. Trust the experts here.

Price: $1000 + Time.

Ok now lets look at the handling side of things.

5. Suspension


A good set of adjustable coil overs give you flexibilty but are not a requirement. A set of well tuned struts and springs can do the business. For the circuit/street balance and S-tyres you'd want to be running a little higher spring rates than you road going counterparts. People have different theories about suspension. So talk to whoever you want on this issue. I had uprated sways which also had a big effect. I think Ohlins DFV are a good setup.
Price: $3500~

6. Brake pads, callipers and rotors.

First.... DONT upgrade your callipers. FD 4 piston callipers are proven winners. DO upgrade your brake pads and fluid. There are sooooooooo many brands out there. Project Mu HC+ or Endless MX72 are repeatedly recommended as a street/circuit pad with exellent results. Driver preference here also. But don't for get the ability of the tyres to handle the braking force. This should  be a combined decision.

Rotors are ok, but as they are consumable, wear will occur and replace them as you require. Dixcel or DBA seem to be making good ones for not soo much cash.

Price: $500~

7. Wheels and Tyres

For the circuit, 17" are good. You will be using rubber for grip, not looks. No difference in times, so go the cheaper option.

Please buy RAYS or PRODRIVE forged wheels. You will not regret it. I recommend Volk RE30 for rigidity, But if cleaning is not your thing then Volk TE37 or new VR G2 are a good choice. Lightweight rims will release a power benefit also so 17" are a good option here too.

AD08, Direzza Star Spec. RE-11 etc. Whatever you can afford and is available in your region. Fun is important too so who cares if it slides a little and you're on a budget. You'll be burning up many if you get the circuit bug.

Price: $4000~

8. Interior / Seat and Wheel


The weakest point of the driving experience in an FD are the stock seats. One word... ATROCIOUS!

Get a bucket seat. FD spirit R or RZ recaro's are ok, but their are so many others that do just as good a job for much less $$. Add a harness for race day. Not on the street that's Naff.

Price: $2000~


Summary.
There a whole bunch of other things like rigid engine mounts, etc that all help but when you see the final tally so far you'll be thinking about not going to the track. Personal items like helmet and suit can run up $2000 also.

So the total tally is already over $21,000 dollars and it probably should be done at the same time.


All prices are rough guides and do not include any labour and small other costs.
So basically, you could just buy another car thats already prepared.

Notice I haven't even touched on aero and others.... Why..? because you don't really need it to have fun.

Here is a case study of the process done right.

Steve's 2001 RS-R Bathurst FD3s Rx7. Street and track capable.

This car is capable of sub 2:00 minutes at Fuji speedway. Just as fast as my other friends Mines 500+hp GTR33, or another friends full tune R34.

Engine has new turbo's with PowerFC so the power is set a bit lower as tuned by knight sports. V-mount and full exhaust. Thats all. It's reliable and can do a whole 40 minute session without breaking a sweat. Suspension has coil overs and TE37 with A050 Advans.

Enjoy shopping or dreaming. But don't give up. Here is a little insipration.

Russ.