Xmas Shopping for Time Attack.

Lets look at the transition required from street to dedicated time attack monster and the effort involved.

Most people convert parts of their car to circuit spec items, then complain that they don't like it anymore.

The fact is it's going to be a compromise. 500hp engine with stock LSD = Fail. Aero with stock springs = Fail, Big brakes up front, Normal Rears = Fail. Big exhaust on a long trip = Fail.

Street or Circuit machines are all about components working together. You can't realistically have both. I really applaud Japanese privateers who trek their S-tyre & 20kgmm spring cars to the circuit on Japan's freeways. The bone shaking is rediculous, let alone the unmuffled straight through exhaust and large turbine noises for a couple of hours. Then there's the return journey with traffic jams and heavy clutch and dog box transmission. YUK!

If you don't go full focus. You will be slower than everyone else. That's a fact. You need to choose. Street or Circuit.

So imagine the scenario.

You have made the decision not to use your car on the street anymore. What's next?

Lets use the Auto Craft FD3s as a case study.

1. Engine and Porting

Basically, a ported engine allows for better combustion and more power. Trade offs are power vs reliability.
Are you planning a rebuild every year. Maybe you should be thinking about it. A good overview of porting is here. http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/re101/ports.php
Depending on engine builder's knowledge new components and the price increases for basic ancilliaries.

$10,000~

2.Turbine and Wastegate.

The biggest ancilliaries are these items. Bigger is not always better. (yes it is) Do you want no power then everything at once. Or a spread of power? What are the circuits like. Long radius corners at half throttle or slow in fast out tight corners. These days you usually can have a good spread of power. Around 450~500hp is good for the 13b rotary with a T04Z or T78.

$10,000~

3. ECU Fuel and injection.

Mapping a monster takes time and knowhow, but don't forget power requires fuel. Upgrading here with swirl pots for increased G applications and larger pumps and injectors should ensure you are on the right track. A bigger throttle body and intake plumbing could probably sit in the combustion realm.

$7,000~

4. Exhaust Again
Straight pipe out the side of the door? I've seen it. But maybe something more conventional is ok. Titanium pipe out the rear of the car. thats it. This is probably the cheapest part of the build.

$ 4000~

5. Drivetrain.
Twin plate clutch for instant engagement, a close ratio sequential box for lightening fast changes and power plant frame upgrades ending in a selected final gear and 2 way LSD. Plus all mounting points upgraded.

$20000~  Gear box alone is about $12000

6. Seam Welding and Cage

Body strength allows precision mounting of components and reduction in suspension geometry variation. A solid cage is a safety requirement at this speed. Cages are welded to the chassis and a/b pillars as some strength is lost with other lightweight components. This boxed reinforcement can totally change the feeling of the car. Add to this seem welding and the body flex is almost totally eliminated. The added weight is a penalty easily regained in other areas.

$5000~ if you aren't going to DIY.

7. Weight reduction and interior.

The first step in weight reduction is the interior removal and selected lightweight items. A half dash with data logging instrument cluster mounted on a carbon panel seems the most popular here. Carbon seat, Harness and a good extinguisher.
The second step is replacement panels. Carbon doors, hood and trunk. Acrylic windows and small mirrors. Headlight replacement is also another area of noticable difference.
The final step is component selection.
Every gram saved equates to benefits in accelleration and decelleration and anytime gravity needs to be overcome, so choose carefully from now on.

$15000~ More if I include the dash logger and a camera recorder.

8. Aero and Wide Body

Which body panels work best. Some are wind tunnel tested, some are trial and error tested. Read some books on fluid dynamics and car aerodynamics and decide which of the body designs can suit your requirements. The way the car passes through the air has a major effect on suspension settings and power requirements.

Wide body designs allow for larger tyres should be considered at this time. The contact patch offers more grip available. Spacing the wheels also contributes to g-loading geometry changes and different handling characteristics.

Lower weight is also a gain as most components are FRP or carbon. Rear Fenders could also cut away as a weight reduction. Something the Autocraft car doesn't incorporate.

$10000~ Remember it needs paint too.

9. Canards and diffussers.

These "popular" items like Canards, splitters, side diffusers etc are usually only required to fine tune a car's behaviour. Reduction of drag however, Vs the increase of downforce is another issue. Underbody flows should also not be ignored.

$3000~

10. Suspension
So getting your car suspension tuned and corner weighted is an important option to balance the car's handling. Fully adjustable suspension including dampers and a range of springs, but not ignoring pillow ball joints, adjustable arms and roll centre adjustments that can make your car easy to set up with the right knowledge. It's not just a case of different springs and Go.

$20000~

11. Brakes

Brakes and balance are important with S-Tyres and this time you may want to think about upgrading rotors and calipers. If nothing else than for reduced weight and rolling stock. ABS removal and a brake bias adjuster are almost a requirement for fine tuning to track conditions.

$20000

12. Wheels and tyres.

I left this until last because it's probably the final thing to install before you hit the track. How many sets?
265x35x18 or 17 seems a popular size on the lightest rims available. Usually a 9.5 or 10" rim is ok. S-tyres for time attack range in compound from 3 laps to 100 hundred laps so choose for duration.

Hmmm. Better find a sponsor for this part.

$6000 per set ... 5 sets for different conditions.???

The last thing is YOU. Driver training. do some! Then hit the track.

So whats the rough tally for something out of the box.

Base car is about $15,000 and then add a conservative. $130000~ If you'd like to swing that cash my way.

I'd be happy to build it for you, Just add a minor fee to that total... Hmmmm how much?

Lets say around $200,000 for a tested machine with the best componentry. Buying the Auto Select car for $60,000 sounds cheap now doesn't it.

Russ.